“If you thought you were heading for the hills, think again: this is a journey back to the future, where recipes channelling Women’s Weekly cookbooks meet 2020s sensibility.

Bombe Alaska torched tableside and devilled eggs with croutons fit right in with the last-century apres ski look of the adjoining motel.

But an updated beef stroganoff brings together fork-tender beef cheek and panko-crumbed mushroom croquettes on house-made pappardelle, and an inventive twist on the California roll fills wave-shaped tempura nori with more salmon than rice. All-local wines embrace emerging varieties and makers; contemporary pride in Australian ingredients makes a statement in kangaroo tartare with pepperberry. But then expertly cooked local trout en papillote and a quick glance at the room’s mustard tones and pyramid-shaped fireplace pull you back to the ’70s dinner party. It’s a lot, but also a lot of fun.” Annabel Smith Good Food

“Regional Victoria continues to be an exciting place to explore bold ideas, where new operators can have a crack, and diners can expect world-class food and wine with a connection to the land around them.”